Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Cereal and Beer, Heels and Subway

A few days before I was to leave the country, I got sick with the flu. I called in to work (actually, I realized I didn't even have the school's number, but eventually I found it) saying I would be sick. The assistant answered my call, told me to feel better, and insisted I take medicine or go to the hospital. Medicine, hospital? That's a bit strange.

My supervisor called me an hour later. She asked if I had taken medicine or had gone to hospital. What's with this hospital business? She made it a point to say that they desperately needed me and expected me in later that day.

Reading online, I found that it's quite uncommon for a Korean to miss a day of work or school on account of being ill. So be it. I'll go into school and I'll infect the entire classroom.


Why do all Korean women wear heels? And yes, even on planes or when they know they're going to be walking on dirt all day?

Koreans have funny ways of walking across streets. You will see people calmly walking and then, suddenly, they spot that the crosswalk is green! They sprint! Kids old ladies, doesn't matter. Doesn't matter that the crosswalk may have just turned green either. The run looks more like an incredibly fast paced shuffle, usually because they're carrying bags. Anyways, it's not weird that they run to/across crosswalks. There's just something odd for me about the manner in which they do it.


Seoul's subway is a fascinating aspect of the city. For one, it's huge. Two, it's so big, with 10 subway lines, it even covers other cities, like Suwon, with a population of 1 million. Many of the cars have lcd televisions built into them which display advertisements and the like. Most stations, as well, have some type of lcd technology whereby they accurately depict the location of previous trains. It's pretty cool and efficient as hell.


Cereal and Beer

Cereal is a problem here in Seoul. Why does it cost $5 a box? And why is it all sugary and tasteless? If you like knock off frosted flakes, though, you might be in heaven.

Not to mention milk. It's more than double the price of the U.S.

And beer. There's nothing exciting on this front, with the possible exception that larger grocery chains are carrying more exotic foreign labels—especially in the foreigner districts! Generally, you're likely to find Hite, Hite D (Dry Finish), Cass, Cass Red, OB Golden, OB Max, and Hite Stout. With the exception of Hite Stout, they're all pretty much interchangable. None are particularly bad, it's just that they're all American lager type clones. Hite Stout, is a halfway decent stout, not offensive on the palate.

These will all cost about $1 a bottle.

In the average grocery store, for foreign beers, you're almost guaranteed to find Hoegaarden and Budweiser. I'm not sure why, but these beers are universal. Foreign beers will usually cost at least double the local stuff.

Working Flu

A few days before I was to leave the country, I got sick with the flu. I called in to work (actually, I realized I didn't even have the school's number, but eventually I found it) saying I would be sick. The assistant answered my call, told me to feel better, and insisted I take medicine or go to the hospital. Medicine, hospital? That's a bit strange.

My supervisor called me an hour later. She asked if I had taken medicine or had gone to hospital. What's with this hospital business? She made it a point to say that they desperately needed me and expected me in later that day.

Reading online, I found that it's quite uncommon for a Korean to miss a day of work or school on account of being ill. So be it. I'll go into school and I'll infect the entire classroom.

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Minutes of the Secret Council of Fort William 1780

I'm looking at the Secret Council of Fort William's very secret notes from 1780. All hand written, almost indecipherable. Big loopy letters like the declaration of independence.

They come in giant bound volumes, each surrounded by a grey box, which is knotted closed.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Time, Time, Time

Although I'm now in London, I feel as if I should write a bit about life in Seoul. I arrived in South Korea on the 27 of August and departed three weeks later on September 17. For me it was three great weeks to live in Seoul, three bad weeks to work in Seoul. But, more on that later.

Now that I'm out of the country, I feel that I can talk more freely. And I have the energy and will to do so.

Seoul is a city that still shows signs of its recent and ongoing industrialization. Called the miracle on the han river, it's truly and incredible city, massive yet densely populated with. It does a good job of holding all these people and tall apartment buildings dot the often hazy sky—which I'm not sure is pollution or fog, though I suspect it is a mix. The subway runs frequently and quickly, following a neurotic timetable. Indeed, timeliness is godliness in this country. And this neuroticism knows little bounds.

I remember my first week at Evan English School. I had 20 minute classes. 15 of them. Yes, I counted, 15 classes a day. It was utterly exhausting, darting from room to room with a little basket full of a boatload of books, my only instructions being to do “review” with the kids with books they had already finished that I had no time to look over.

Suffice to say, I got very adept at introducing myself to a bunch of kids. Who am I, What's my name, where do I come from. That, and playing games with them. Until, of course, I was instructed by my supervisor that I was no longer permitted to play games with them. Which left me with.... a whole bunch of finished textbooks I had never seen before.

Point of this description is to say that once every 20 minutes were over, if I did not stop my instruction at exactly 20 minutes past once I entered, my supervisor would hurriedly march down the hall, enter the room, and inform me that I was late to the next class! I was late! It was more of an oddity than anything; timeliness taken to a rigid and stressful extreme.

Monday, September 19, 2011

At the British Library in London

I will tell the tale of how I went from London to Korea in a few hours but, for now, I pour over old books at the British Library. I am amazed at the wealth of material here. (I'll also tell more about my scholarship in a bit).

It's incredible how the Cape of Good Hope (Modern South Africa) and British India were so interconnected. The correspondence from Fort William (Modern Calcutta/Kolkata) to London is replete with references to the British Cape of Good Hope. In 1799, the British had just conquered South Africa. So that year marks the first year of their colonial rule there. That's when my study of South African newspapers for my thesis commenced. The Governor of General of Fort William wrote to London of his reception from the governor of the Cape of Good Hope a letter that the new colony "was in great want of proper timber."

The Governor-General of India sent timber as well as rice, which was "very scare and very dear" and other goods to the fledgling colony with his own initiative, separate from London.

Since every boat that went to British India made a stopover in Cape Town, these colonies were intimately connected. South Africa was an eminently strategic acquistion as it straddled all shipping lanes to and from the spice rich East Indies.

A happy and prosperous British India required a happy and prosperous British South Africa.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

First Days in Seoul

Hello all!

This is my first post from the bustling, busy-busy city of Seoul. I'll just start off with a quick layout of the first few days here.

I left early in the morning on Friday, the 26th from Bradley Int'l. The school pays the cost of the flight, which is a standard feature of the contract and quite a nice perk. I arrived here in Korea on the 27th at about 3:30 pm Korean Standard Time. I'm thirteen hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time. So, if it is 1pm on the east coast, it's 2am here in Korea. Likewise, if it is 5pm here in Korea, it would be 3am in Missouri.

The flight was uneventful, though I met an American couple who were traveling to the southern Korean city of Cheongju to teach English. The flight over from Chicago O'Hare to Seoul was pretty much composed of entirely Koreans or young Americans, of whom I presume were all going to teach English in Seoul.

My recruiter's—the contractor who helped match me up with an English school here—driver drove me to the hagwon (Hagwon means private English school in Korea). There, I met the director of the school, who doesn't speak English, which is a bit ironic. He showed me the school and then drove me to my apartment. All the directions are in Korean, including addresses. Moreover, street numbers are assigned based on the order in which buildings on the street were built, not one where they are on the road. Even further, this numbering system is often irrelevant since most building don't actually have their building number on them. Imagine the confusion if I were to get lost!

I spent Sunday wandering around the Mok-Dong district of the city, the district where I live and work. I found a few grocery stores, so I know where I'll be doing my shopping.

Monday I began work. The director picked me up at 11:30 and we arrived at work 10 minutes later. I was there until 9. A long day! At the end of the day, I walked home. A short walk, perhaps 15 minutes.

So, I'm just getting settled here and I don't know anyone yet, but hopefully that will change.

Look forward to more blog posts! I'll make them more interesting about adjusting to life here and culture in Seoul. I'll certainly talk more the hagwon (school), too—of which I have a lot to say but want to hold off on because of some rather interesting occurrences that have taken place there.

That's all for now folks!