Saturday, September 11, 2010

Warangal and Ramappa Temple

We entered the 1000 Pillared Temple and were blessed. The monk applied the red mark on our foreheads, the KumKum. Us. Grimy, dirty, ignorant, shorts wearing Americans.

We entered temples were photographed. We were given more than the usual stares. The next day we appeared in photos and articles for at least two local papers. We were the tourist attraction.

Three hours outside of the city of Hyderabad lies the small city of Warangal. It has little tourist influence. The city lies at the heart of the Telangana region of the Andhra Pradesh Province, a hotbed of separatist politics for the Telangana minority in the province.

We arrived in the city, assaulted by child beggars and the scent of piss and cow dung, and moved from the train station to our hotel. Rooms booked at R130 per night per person, or 2.5 dollars. No AC, no Western Toilets and the usual myriad of scents wafting up from the alley behind.

There were eight of us that went, a good crowd of Americans, a Thai and a Mexican.

We made an early start to the town of Melugu, a further 75km from Warangal. It is a small town of maybe 5000 people, whose existence is solely reliant on the main road that bisects it. Cows, like elsewhere idle in the streets. Nearby, however, is the Ramappa Temple and the lake that sits 2km away.

Isolated and desolate, the temple sits in a green field with evidence of restoration. Like everywhere in India, we did have some odd company. A insane man, whose name sounded roughly like “Byah,” was our “security guard” until we convinced him that we were going to call the police.

Other Indians we more helpful. A bunch of guys transported us on their motorbikes. It's a treat fitting 4 people on to one small bike. Since we were such a big deal, we had cheers with “thums up” (a drink like coke) at his small cellphone shop. We ate food with our hands a restaurant so spicy that I could not open my eyes.

Higher Education

Higher Education

A flood of students scurry into your classroom, hurried and shushed. It's 11:20, twenty minutes after class's scheduled beginning.

The professor has just walked in.

The students stand up and address the professor as Sir or Madam.

Every day I lose more faith in India's higher education system. The University of Hyderabad is ranked number 1 in India as a postgraduate institution. But contrast this ranking to actual University academics and you get a much different image. In class, Some students have a maturity level similar to high school students. Male and female students frequently sit separate. Students pass notes in class and do not engage the professor. There is little real discussion in class, and this is a graduate level University. Students are receiving their Ph. D and their masters degrees, but often do not seem ready for such critical thinking. I must emphasize that many students are mature and competent and these issues are not the fault of the students, but rather a result of the structure of Higher Education here.

Professors do not help much for education. Here is a line for line quote from my Dalit Politics Professor in a 500 level second year masters course.

“it's a fragmenting, it's a fragmenting, fragmenting, fragmenting if you talk of inequality you can talk of inequality within the dominant class, but a graded graded inequality it's a political social that graded inequality. That graded inequality is the one, secondly. It is not the division of labor. Division of labor is a universal. Division of labor, division of laborers is different, division of laborers is different my friends, it's a very theoretical. So that division of labor. Graded inequality. ...it's a labor that is continues laborers, it is a 'laterlite' situation. It's a compartments, it's a vertical, not a horizontal. It's a very interesting that ambedkar formulation. To get a the caste system annihilation, of caste theory it is a very two thing, the two things are simplistic.“

Not entirely sure what he was getting at with this thought.

In Women's History in India we have started presenting seminar papers. On our first day, three students presented their papers. Each went up to the podium, opened their papers and read. Monotone, droning thick accent. They did not look up once. They did not make eye contact. Atrocious English. After each reading our Professor berated the class for not discussing the paper. I'd be surprised if any of the students would respond, either they were passing notes in class (which happens) or did not undertsand a word, like us.

Critical thinking among the majority of Indian students is lacking. Here Education is frequently based on wrote memorization so students can repeat information and dates back but cannot analyze information and readings. This difference of focus from the western system reflects itself in grading exams and emphasis in class.

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Student Protest

Students Protested yesterday Today about the University not giving out Fellowships that were promised--essentially Scholarships for studying here and for the lack of transport to South Campus, a 2km walk to Main Campus.

The Pro-Vice Chancellor came out to meet them, The bald guy, dressed as a Brahman. He acceded to all their demands. The Vice Chancellor convientely left the University that day.

The Protest was led by a cooperation of political bodies on Campus and the Students' Union. They marched through campus attracting students. Consequently, most classes were cancelled.

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